Hola from Ensenada, Mexico!
Our stay in San Francisco, Los Angeles & San Diego brought many visitors to our boat, Moorea.
Kelly’s grandparents, Jack & Betty Waterhouse drove from Eugene, Oregon to kick off our San Francisco tour. Visiting old haunts was a stroll down memory
lane for Kelly, Granny and Gramps. They would fly Kelly & his older
brother, Jann down to California and sail in the San Francisco Bay area. Moving along the coast of California we visited more family & friends, delighted
in their company and grateful with escorting us around for provisions.
San Diego was our home for 3 weeks. The length of
our stay was due to waiting for Solar Panels, which were on back order and
purchasing the last few spare parts needed for the journey. Typically we
will set a date for departure and usually are 2-3 days behind schedule. Thus
our departure date from San Diego was Sunday, November 13th to our
next destination Ensenada, Mexico.
Ensenada is located 60 miles south with an
estimated 15 hour travel time. The rumor among cruisers we met in San Diego was that Ensenada is the easiest place to “Check in” for foreign vessels into Mexico. The following is required to enter Mexico, 6 month Visa, Passports, Boating
Insurance with coverage in Mexico, a fishing license for the boat, the dingy
& each person on board if the boat has fishing gear, 10 year boat import
document, and last but not least a Mexican HAM radio license to accompany the
U.S. HAM license. The total amount we spent to “Check in” to Mexico, including Port Fees was $627. We are lucky since in years past, cruisers were
required to pay Port Fees in every Mexican Port they entered. Now we only
pay the Port Fee in the first Port and just report to the Port Captain in all
other Ports we visit along Mexico’s coast.
A little nervous
and excited upon entering a foreign country where English is not the official
language, we anchored in Ensenada’s Bay. Upon rowing the dingy to the
nearest dock we met Rogelio, (also known as Roger) who happens to be the Dock
Master of Baja Naval Marina. He has a quick smile and his English is
perfect. He told us the Port Captain charges for anchoring in the bay. To
wave that anchoring fee, we could pay the marina $5.50/day per person, which
includes all the amenities of the marina. For example; showers, dingy dock
tie up, a free call to the U.S. The marina also provides a “Check in”
service for $27. We decided to use the marina services and started the
process with Roger. He also provided information on where to get Pesos, a
good local restaurant & fish taco stand.
Venturing out
into the town with my pocket Spanish book in hand, Kelly Boy and I went to
the first restaurant Roger recommended called Maribel. A small seating area
on the street and even smaller dinning area inside, this place was packed
with locals. We found one table open that seated four people. The waitress
came up to us and spoke in Spanish inquiring what we would like to eat. We
pointed out a few things on their menu, but they only prepare 3 entrée items
during lunch. As it turned out, we were seated near the kitchen & hot
table full of savory food items. We pointed to the food thought to be
tasty. Shortly after the waitress left, two women asked to join us at our table.
I said “yes” instead of “si” and one immediately started talking to us in
broken English. She said this restaurant has very good food and she drove a
long way just to eat here. As the waitress was bringing our food, our new
companion was watching over us ensuring we received our soup, a stack of
tortillas & rice with our entrees. (The waitress was slow to bring these
items) Once our lunch was finished our new “Amiga” told us the rice pudding
was the best. We took her word and ordered the dessert. Our meal for two
people, with soda drinks & tip cost $11.
The next day
with Roger, we went to the Port Captain’s office which also housed
Immigration & Custom Officials. Checking in was a snap and took less
than 1 hour with Roger representing us to the Port Captain and Kelly & I
working with the Immigration & Custom’s people. Other cruisers said
checking in could take up to a day, so we were grateful to have Roger with
his knowledge. To celebrate we took Roger out for fish & shrimp tacos at
his favorite taco stand. He drove us to the stand, where the tacos were
delicious and the sweetened, cinnamon rice water was excellent. (Yes, we
drank the water!) Kelly & I were skeptical in drinking this rice water,
but I am glad to report that 72 hours have passed and no sign of sickness.
I wouldn’t say Ensenada is esthetically pleasing to the eye. Most buildings look rundown; the sidewalks
are full of “gringo traps” which are holes in the cement or uneven sidewalks
causing one to trip. Roger showed us how to cross a crosswalk. It’s not a
walk. The pace is between a trot and a run. The appeal to this large town
is that the people of Ensenada are very friendly. Along with our Amiga in
the restaurant, people we asked for directions on the street were courteous
and friendly. We communicated quite well even with the language barrier.
Walking into the local True Hardware store we met Alfredo who learned English
from CD’s during his lunch hour. We had a delightful conversation with him
and he pointed out other places of interest to visit.
Now that we are
officially in Mexico, Moorea is once again heading south to many Ports along
this coast. We have met other cruising couples in San Diego and we have
bumped into them along these Mexican Bays.
Wishing you a Happy
Thanksgiving!
Kelly Girl