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French Polynesia
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Marquesas Island Group Tuamotus
Island Group
Society Island Group
Marquesas Islands
April
23rd 2006
Hiva
Oa to Tahuata: 09°56.18’S
Lat. and 139°06.65’W Lon.
Having
checked into French Polynesia we were now ready to explore some of the other
islands. The  anchorage that we were leaving in our
wake required a bow and stern anchor; this keeps our bow towards the incoming
swell. On arrival the small anchorage was quite cozy with 10 boats. After a
week there were 24 boats! One could almost jump from boat to boat. Moorea
was ready to find a more secluded haven. In the log book our conditions were
wind out of the S.E. at force 1, a 4 foot swell, 50% cloud cover with
unlimited visibility and about 85° for air temperature. It was a perfect day
for a day sail to Tahuata. Passing other anchorages Kelly and I chose one
just for ourselves and we found it at Baie Vaitahu. With little swell and a
cool night breeze our sleep was perfect.
April
24th 2006
Tahuata
to Fatu Hiva: 10°27.86’S Lat. and 138°40.03’W Lon.
Our
stay at Baie Vaitahu was limited to just an overnighter, we were anxious to
visit the island of Fatu  Hiva. I loved the name of our next stop,
the Bay of Penises. When the missionaries came to the island they changed
the name to the Bay of Virgins, but I like the original name better. Besides
it fits so well when you see the vertical stones standing so erect. Again
the anchorage had a number of other cruising boats, so we dropped the hook
slightly away from the rest. Chain over a rock bottom makes quite a bit of
noise when the boats shifts, but you get used to it. Rowing to shore was
easy as our boat was the closest to the boat ramp.
The
boat ramp on the other hand was treacherous with slippery green slim.
Normally our dinghy stays in the water, but here I wanted to keep it out of
the local’s way so KG and I would drag the boat up the ramp and onto shore.
It must have been comical for the people watching us slip and slid with a dinghy
in our hands. While on the island we hiked to a 300ft waterfall and swam in
the Olympic sized pool at its base. We didn’t see a soul from the path to
the waterfall or back to the trails beginning. Kelly and I also met a local
carver and traded some used life vests for a few of his tikis carved from
rosewood. The people are so generous, I pointed to a cross hanging on his
wall and told him that I liked it and he proceeded to take it off and give it
to me! He had carved it when Mother  Theresa came to their island for a
visit. Engraved in the wood he has her name and date of visit, a very big
deal to have her come so far to such a small place. Serge (the carver’s
name) told us to come back the next day for some chicken. With the language
barrier we weren’t sure if we were to eat the chicken at his place or if he
had chicken for us. I arrived with some music, he likes Bob Marley and to
find out the plans. As it turns out he had chicken for us and thankfully
they weren’t still alive. Serge had plucked and gutted them for us (thank
goodness). Chickens on the islands run free so I guess you could call them
free island chickens, but they taste how I would envision eating an elite
marathon runner (a little tuff). Five days later it was time to push on.
Our plan was to spend 1 month in the Marquesas, 1 month in the Tuamotus and 1
month in the Society Islands. We only had a 3 month visa so off we went.
April
29th 2006
Fatu
Hiva back to Hiva Oa
The
decision was made to head back to our original port, we needed to provision,
diesel up, water up and check out of the southern group of the islands. On
our way back to the island a large front with dark clouds moved in on us
rapidly. Our wind speed indicator was registering 30 knots with heavy rain,
reducing sail helped to lesson the winds effect on board. With all of our
errands completed we were off to a secluded anchorage on the north side of
Hiva Oa.
May 2nd
2006
Hiva
Oa to Hanamenu bay (Hiva Oa): 09°45.91’S Lat. and 139°01.89’W Lon.
Sailing
again under jib alone Moorea made her way north towards the drier side of the
island. In our  previous bay rain was just about a daily
occurrence, typically lasting 30 minutes or less. It was also fairly humid
and being from the northwest of the U.S. I was used to the rain but not the
humidity. Our anchorage in Hanamenu was divine; the sun would rise later
because of the high steep sides of the bay. It kept us cooler and drier
being on the opposite side of the trade winds. One night we had Jim and Eva
over from S/V Serenity for a great game of cards. We played a game called OH
Hell that my Granny taught me as a kid. The game is now spreading like
wildfire in the cruising community because everyone that we show it to loves
it! We also took a dip in a freshwater pool that was very cool and
refreshing. On the way back to our dinghies we were chased by nonos and
mosquitoes looking for some sweet white meat.
May 4th
2006
Hanamenu
to Oa Pou: 09°21.52’S Lat. and 140°02.85’W Lon.
Leaving
at midnight we were able to arrive at our next port of call in the daylight.
The sailing was  delightful with 15 to 20 knots from the
S.E. Since the anchorage was so small, all of the boats were anchored bow
and stern. This accomplishes two things: first it keeps us from swinging into
another boat and second it keeps the front of our “home” pointed into the
swell. The locals were extremely nice and very generous with their fruit.
We were given Pomplamoos, Star fruit, bananas, lemons, and oranges. We played
with the local children and let them row our dinghy around in the bay. It
was funny watching them trying to row because the boys kept wanting to use
the oars as paddles. Eventually with one boy on each oar they were able to
maneuver quite well. Hosting another movie night was fun for the kids from
the other cruising boats in the bay.
May
10th 2006
Oa
Pou to Nuka Hiva: 08°55.52’S Lat. and 140°06.24’W Lon.
Bow
and stern anchored Moorea sat well at anchor. The bay itself was dirty from
recent heavy rains;  we didn’t swim in it and were told that
freshwater was not potable. We peddled our Dahon folding bicycles around to
visit local points of interest and to the Gendarmerie to check in. I really
enjoyed looking at all of the different stone carved tiki’s. We also filled
our propane tanks using the local service. Instead of propane they use
butane, a little less pressure but otherwise it works just fine. In need of
freshwater we were told to try Daniel’s Bay, infamous site of the TV series
Survivor.
May
14th 2006
Taiohae
Bay (Nuka Hiva) to Daniels Bay (Nuka Hiva): 08°56.70’S Lat. and 140°09.80’W
Lon.
While
in Daniel’s Bay I didn’t even leave the boat! I had so many projects to do.
La Kelly on the other hand, took shore leave in search of water. What she
found was that Daniel who used to live there and provide cruisers with water
had moved up the river and sold the land to someone else. The new owners are
now charging for water, $10.00 to fill your tanks. We said no thanks and
decided to head back to Oa Pou for free water from the Quay.
May
16th 2006
Nuku
Hiva to Oa Pou: 09°21.52’S Lat. and 140°02.85’W Lon.
Our
sail back to Oa Pou was very slow as there was light wind with calm seas.
Motoring the last two hours to reach our destination helped to charge our
batteries. Skies were almost clear with about 20% cloud cover and
temperatures around 80°. Since the wind had left us we needed to wait until
it came back, otherwise it would be a long sail to the next island group. At
almost 500 nautical miles, Moorea’s passage to the Tuamotus could take as
long as 5 days. While at Oa Pou we met Dave and Julie on S/V La Vie. Being
from the Seattle area Dave and I had many things in common.
Tuamotus Islands
May
21st 2006
Oa
Pou to Makemo Atoll: 16°37.65’S Lat. and 143°34.26’W Lon.
Five
days later the trade winds returned from the S.E. Kelly and I were happy to
be under way again.  Our first two days Moorea had at least
one reef in the main and sometimes two. The motion of the boat was very
different being close hauled with the ocean swell coming toward us versus
with us. It felt almost like riding a galloping horse, two hands were needed
to steady our bodies on the bucking boat. One hundred and twenty eight
nautical miles were logged from 13:30 to 13:30. On May 22nd
Moorea set a new twenty four hour mileage record at one hundred and forty
nine nautical miles, pretty good for an overloaded twenty eight foot
waterline sloop. By the 24th we recorded one hundred and fifteen
miles as the wind lessoned to force 3. Makemo atoll has a pass  that you would not go
through in the dark, since it was still early in the morning we hove-to to
slow the boat until light. Closely watching the tides for a slack period, we
decided from our tables, to go through at ten o’clock. Motoring in the well
marked channel we were finally at our first atoll. At only a few meters
above sea level the landscape was so different than the high jagged peaks of
the Marquesas. What I noticed right away inside the atoll was that the ocean
swell was completely gone! Just little wind ripples and waves lapped against
Moorea’s hull, just divine. Arriving on shore for the first time we found
most of the locals out near the pier playing Botchy Ball. We even had the
mayor of Makemo come and say “You are welcome in Makemo”. He made everyone
feel at home in this far away place. Fishing with Victor, watching Becko
carve black pearls, and eating with other cruisers at a water side Roulette
were some of the highlights of this atoll.
June
1st 2006
Makemo
Atoll to intermediate anchorage: 16°35.75’S Lat. and 143°38.98’W Lon.
Having
spent ten days at the village it was time to hoist the iron and sail on.
Inside of the atoll we had  to keep a sharp lookout for coral, so I
went up the mast to the spreaders to guide KG at the helm of any coral heads
in our path. Ohana Kai found a nice intermediate anchorage on our way to the
other pass leading out of the atoll of Makemo. The heads are easy to see at
that height as long as the sun is not shining in your eyes. The view from
the spreaders was fantastic. Time is all we have until the arguments take
all of the time away.
June
2nd 2006
Intermediate
anchorage to intermediate anchorage: 16°31.02’S Lat. and 143°49.49’W Lon.
Continuing
west Ohana Kai and Moorea were trying to catch up to the S/V Capaz.
Sometimes it is great to travel in company, we took turns leading through the
atoll and at the time our depth sounders weren’t working so when it came time
to anchor we had no idea how deep it was. With our cruising buddies I could
hail them on the VHF or just yell “How deep is it over there?” Having caught
up to Tod and Julie and their two kids Jake and Zack all three boats got
together on Ohana Kai for sundowners.
June
3rd 2006
Intermediate
anchorage to West pass: 16°26.81’S Lat. and Lon. 143°56.90’W Lon.
High
above the decks of Moorea La Kelly sat perched on the spreaders of mast for
the first time!  Because the water was so smooth this was
a great place to go aloft. Four hours later our anchor was set in a sandy
patch in front of a motu with no inhabitants. Exploring the beach we noticed
many black tipped sharks swimming in the shallow reef water. Hermit crabs
were everywhere and before collecting a shell we would check to see if anyone
was home. During the transit of this atoll “Johnny” our Yanmar powered us
the entire way, in Fakarava we sailed from one end to the other.
June
5th 2006
Makemo
to Tahanea: 16°51.05’S Lat. and 144°41.62’W Lon.
Leaving
at 14:00 with high tide, Moorea hit speeds of 6 knots through the narrow
pass. Safely past the  shallows we set the main and jib for the
atoll of Tahanea. Sailing into night time KG and I decided on 3 hour shift
watches. Our passage was pleasant as seas were light and wind just right. Arriving
the following day, we once again found ourselves hove-to waiting for near
slack tide to enter the pass. Having safely navigated into the atoll we
dropped the hook at 11:00. A fond memory of this atoll was drift snorkeling
the pass. With an ebbing tide you gear up and jump out of the dinghy. You
float with the current and watch all of the fish and various corals without
effort. Huge waves form from the out flowing tide colliding with incoming
swell, so before reaching them everyone would jump back into the dinghy, fire
up the outboards and motor back in for another drift.
June
9th 2006
Tahanea
to Fakarava: 16°31.70’S Lat. and 145°25.60’W Lon.
We
left at 06:00 in order to reach the entrance to Fakarava during the daylight
and near slack tide.  Our timing was a little early leaving
Tahanea as we experienced a strong outgoing current with a large swell that
produced the scariest waves we’ve encountered thus far. Close together and
steep, Moorea had water coming over bow and stern. Since the tide was with
us Moorea was soon into deep, smooth, blue water. Broad reaching with full
sail was a treat. As the wind continued to increase KG and I would continue
to reduce sail, finally ending up with just our jib. We had to anchor under sail because just
after entering the pass La K noticed that the motor was making a different
sound. I said "don't worry about it" (I was busy preparing to
anchor). The next thing La K said was "There is no water coming out of
the exhaust!” So we turned the engine off (the temp got up to 220), so we
were forced to roll out some of the jib and short tack to the anchorage and
then drop our anchor. It turns out that the pulley on the raw water pump was
turning freely. After closer inspection the pulley itself is supposed to
have two flat spots on it that fits over the shaft with the same two flat
spots, well the pulley now has a perfectly round hole in it. I jimmy rigged
it this morning and hopefully it will work until I can get a replacement or
possibly have it welded. The good news is that La K found it before we
damaged the engine. Dinner that night consisted of a Mahi Mahi that Bruce
Bruce had caught en route. Cleaning the fish on the back of S/V Capaz “the
boys” noticed sharks swimming behind the transom. So boys being boys we
decided to tie what was left of Bruce’s catch onto a line and dip it into the water. The show we
received was worth the price of admission, what a rush to watch them devour
and thrash the skeleton to bits. No one swam at the south pass of Fakarava.
June
11th 2006
South
pass to intermediate anchorage: 16°11.33’S Lat. and 145°34.82’W Lon.
Following
S/V Capaz and S/V Ohana Kai allowed us to sail with just our jib. The wind
was 15 to 20knots on mostly our beam. Because we were on the inside of the
atoll our sail was super smooth. Both of our buddy’s boats are larger and
faster than Moorea, but with our sail out we were able to keep up with their
motors. At this secluded anchorage I didn’t even go ashore. That night our
boats were invited to the Ohana Kai club for drinks.
June
12th 2006
Intermediate
anchorage to Fakarava village: 16°03.42’S Lat. and 145°37.36’W Lon.
Once
again following the “lead” boats Moorea was able to sail close behind without
fear of hitting a  shoal. Four hours later with anchor set,
we launched “Dux” our dinghy with her sail kit for shore leave. While in
town the group toured a pearl farm to learn more about these black beauties.
KG and I also rode our bicycles to their airport and almost adopted a puppy
that kept following us. Being out of cash a local grocery store fortunately
accepted visa. If we are ever in this part of the world again we would
definitely spend more of our time in the Tuamotus group. By applying for a
tourist visa while back in the U.S. we might have gotten a 6 month visa
instead of 3. I would recommend getting the longer visa even if you didn’t
need all of it.
Society Islands
June
16th 2006
Fakarava
to Tahiti: 17°35.45’S Lat. and 149°36.86’W Lon.
Great
winds blew us all of the way to Tahiti using just a 110% jib. Our timing was
perfect to arrive in  Papeete at 07:00 with the morning light.
We decided to anchor south of town near Marina Taina. While in the big city
we made repairs to our Dufour. One thing that we replaced was our water
bladders. While in Oa Pou directly after filling our tanks I noticed the
bilge pump was on. After a couple of minutes it was still on so we looked
around and found that the leak was coming from a blown seam in a water bladder.
I quickly grabbed the 5200 a couple pieces of wood and a pair of vise grips.
My repair was quick and dirty as my old boss Les Walter used to say, but it
held. Yet another time the bilge pump was running too much we found that our
saltwater foot pump diaphragm went bad. We had one shipped from the states,
prices in French Poly are steep, bring lots of spares! One night a group of
cruisers went downtown for dinner. The problem was that we went on a Sunday
when almost nothing was open. By asking around we did hear of a spot
downtown by the water that served food after 17:00. Stomachs growling we
waited while a dozen roach coaches (Roulettes) drove in single file and set
up tables and chairs. They transformed the blank cement into food paradise.
KG and I split some stir fried Chinese food and then had the most delicious
Crepe desert with ice cream on top. YUM.
June
29th 2006
Tahiti
to Moorea: 17°30.05’S Lat. and 149°49.19’W Lon.
Since
our anchorage could see Moorea, our namesake, it did not take us long after
our boat repairs to  go for a visit. Motoring out of the
channel we encountered no wind, so our boat slowly made her way towards the
island. As soon as we got near Moorea a N.W. wind started and quickly was
gusting to 30 knots. Sailing close hauled into the growing waves I was
rapidly soaked from spray. Once around the N.E. corner of the island the
wind was more behind us so we had a good ride. Arriving at Cook’s Bay was
very exciting for us as we had safely made it to Moorea on Moorea. With
fellow cruisers KG and I hiked to the Belvedere (lookout) where you can see
both Oponohu Bay and Cook’s Bay at the same time. Peddling our bicycles
around the island was fun and gave us some much needed exercise.
July
4th 2006
Cook’s
Bay to Oponohu Bay: 17°29.25’S Lat. and 149°50.01’W Lon.
Anchoring
close to the reef in Oponohu Bay was sweet. Sandy bottom in only fifteen
feet of water we  could see the anchor set itself in. From
here Dave and Julie from S/V La Vie climbed Mt Rotui with us. Dave and I
made it to the top at 899 meters. Starting at sea level and following a
sometimes knife edge ridge line you would pick your foot steps carefully.
Four hours later on top we could see Tahiti and both bays below. Two hours
later with sore legs and knees we were back at sea level. Another day a
group of us went swimming with sting rays. A long dinghy ride down a shallow
coral cleared path led us to sting ray heaven. A neighboring boat had food
so we congregated by them. Standing in the waist deep water the rays would “flap”
right into us, kind of freaky, but fun. KG and I headed back to Cook’s Bay
to pick up a package from the states with much needed spares and replacement
parts. We really enjoyed the hikes, snorkeling, and anchorages on Moorea
besides the pure beauty of the island.
July
9th 2006
Moorea
to Huihine: 16°42.80’S Lat. and 151°02.26’W Lon.
Another
overnight passage to the next island. Fortunately we had wind from between
12-15 knots all night. Full moon, clear skies and calm seas made for fun
night watches. We only
stayed in Huihine for 1 night because a number of our cruising friends got
items stolen from their boats! A total of 5 surf boards and 1 outboard
dinghy gas can. The fuel can costs about 75.00usd to replace here (what a
bummer). Fortunately nothing from our boat was stolen. We left the following day.
July
11th 2006
Huihine
to Raiatea: 16°43.77’S Lat. and 151°26.41’W Lon.
Clear
skies and about 75° Moorea and crew had a wonderful downwind sail that lasted
four and a half  hours. Our first night we anchored in 60
feet of water south of the pier and marina on the N.E. corner of the island.
The following day we headed north to tie up at the pier. It was wonderful
being tied to a dock where we could just step ashore to go for a run, shop,
or ride our bikes. For dinner one night all 7 yachts brought food for a
cruise’s pot luck with botchy ball. Great company and good food for all.
Downtown was only a block away so provisioning was easy. A strong N.W. wind
pinned us to the dock so we had to wait a few extra days just to get off of
the dock. Once free Moorea traveled to the west side of Raiatea near a haul
out yard for propane. The cost for a small propane bottle to be filled in Everett was $3.00 here it cost $20.00 water way robbery some would say.
July
18th 2006
Raiatea
to Bora Bora: 16°32.03’S Lat. and 151°45.93’W Lon.
Tuning
our rig while en route to Bora Bora made the short day sail even faster.
Tacking the final miles  to the only entrance had some cruisers
calling us hard core for not firing up the “iron genny”. I told them I
learned from the best, Gramps and Granny. Anchoring at the southern end of Bora Bora we found 30 feet of water to anchor in. The view from our boat is spectacular,
open water on one side and the picturesque island behind. While on this
island KG and I picked out some black pearls for Judi our friend and my former
employer back in Bellevue, WA. She wanted loose pearls so we selected 5
within our allotted budget and had them shipped. We had a great time
selecting them and even got our picture taken with our salesman. He showed some
interest in sailing so we took him for a 2 hour day sail to our next
anchorage, we had a great sail. One night Tod, Julie with their kids Jake
and Zack from S/V Capaz and Bruce, Lisa with their kids Tristen and Mathew
plus Bob and Diana from S/V White Swan all went out to Bloody Mary’s for
dinner. The food was excellent albeit expensive, but the memories are worth
more that the bucks. Hiking to a WW2 canon was a step back in time for us
and the views awe inspiring. We will never forget the French Polynesian
people and places that we visited.
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