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Debating
if we should visit Fiji
and Vanuatu or just head
straight to Australia from
New Zealand
was one of the options available to us and the decision to visit these
islands has not been a disappointment.
Working our way from the eastern Polynesian nations, the
islanders’ appearance is more African like than Polynesian since the
historical navigators that populated this area about 3000 years prior,
originated from Melanesia. Even though 450 miles separate
these nations, only a few common traits exist, like cannibalism and
colonialism, which up until the last 40 years, both are presently extinct in
these societies. Otherwise these
cultures vary greatly and exploring the differences has been a delight.
Fiji just experienced a coup mid-December 2006 and with
reports from other cruisers that had been present during the overthrow, they
reported that the nation’s capital city of Suva had shown the signs of a coup
d'état and not the outer islands.
So five months later, we pull into Suva and found a bustling city containing
both Indigenous Fijians and Indian Fijians conducting business as usual. These two cultures struggle to
co-exist and the political turmoil involving how much control either group
has appears to be one reason for the unrest, but coups are not uncommon here,
having gained Independence from Great Britain
in 1970, there have been four.
Walking
through a busy town or a village path, one can not escape the words,
“Bula” from a passerby.
No matter how rushed a person appears, a quick hello is spoken and
usually a broad smile when returning the greeting. This outgoing friendly nation is quite
used to tourists and since the recent troubles, these islanders will feel the
economic impact with a slow tourism season this year and years to come unless
they can form a stable government.
Sailing
four days from Fiji to Vanuatu,
these nations are close to proximity yet diverse in culture. Years ago missionaries landed on the
islands of Vanuatu
and shortly after became the entrees.
Villages either were friendly with each other or enemies, so your
nemesis was fare game on the dinner table; in fact the last recorded
cannibalistic act was on the island
of Malekula in
1969. Since missionaries were
more delightful smothered with coconut milk instead of preaching the daily
gospel, few islanders converted to Christianity and kept to their own rituals
and traditions and in some remote villages still engrossed in their beliefs
more or less untainted with western ideals.
As
we explore these islands, trying to take in all the beauty of the people,
their customs and environment, I look forward to reporting the experiences of
our time here.
Ata
(good bye)
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