Fiji and Vanuatu    June 2007

 

 

   

Debating if we should visit Fiji and Vanuatu or just head straight to Australia from New Zealand was one of the options available to us and the decision to visit these islands has not been a disappointment.  Working our way from the eastern Polynesian nations, the islanders’ appearance is more African like than Polynesian since the historical navigators that populated this area about 3000 years prior, originated from Melanesia.   Even though 450 miles separate these nations, only a few common traits exist, like cannibalism and colonialism, which up until the last 40 years, both are presently extinct in these societies.  Otherwise these cultures vary greatly and exploring the differences has been a delight.

 

Fiji just experienced a coup mid-December 2006 and with reports from other cruisers that had been present during the overthrow, they reported that the nation’s capital city of Suva had shown the signs of a coup d'état and not the outer islands.  So five months later, we pull into Suva and found a bustling city containing both Indigenous Fijians and Indian Fijians conducting business as usual.  These two cultures struggle to co-exist and the political turmoil involving how much control either group has appears to be one reason for the unrest, but coups are not uncommon here, having gained Independence from Great Britain in 1970, there have been four.

 

Walking through a busy town or a village path, one can not escape the words, “Bula” from a passerby.  No matter how rushed a person appears, a quick hello is spoken and usually a broad smile when returning the greeting.  This outgoing friendly nation is quite used to tourists and since the recent troubles, these islanders will feel the economic impact with a slow tourism season this year and years to come unless they can form a stable government.

 

Sailing four days from Fiji to Vanuatu, these nations are close to proximity yet diverse in culture.  Years ago missionaries landed on the islands of Vanuatu and shortly after became the entrees.  Villages either were friendly with each other or enemies, so your nemesis was fare game on the dinner table; in fact the last recorded cannibalistic act was on the island of Malekula in 1969.  Since missionaries were more delightful smothered with coconut milk instead of preaching the daily gospel, few islanders converted to Christianity and kept to their own rituals and traditions and in some remote villages still engrossed in their beliefs more or less untainted with western ideals. 

 

As we explore these islands, trying to take in all the beauty of the people, their customs and environment, I look forward to reporting the experiences of our time here. 

 

Ata (good bye)