Kingdom
of Tonga, Vava’u Island Group October 2006
Hello family and
friends,
Turbulent passages
between the Cook and Niue islands where
rough seas and exposed, rolly anchorages left us
exhausted. Ready for the protected,
calm bays of the Vava’u Island group in Tonga we are
kicking back and slowly visiting these islands. The events of the past month were escorting
another cruiser back to a safe anchorage, dealing with third world officials,
and experiencing the loss of a monarch in a Third World Country, the Kingdom
of Tonga.
Leaving Niue for Tonga, Moorea
had the company of sailing vessel, Sensie with
Chris, Kelley and 11 year old daughter Clare on board. The seas were 2-3 feet with 10-12 knots of
wind from the stern and building.
Twenty five miles out of Niue is when
Clare came on the VHF stating that their forestay had broken away.
The forestay is one of the
vital rigging components to keeping the mast upright. These heavy gauges of wire connect from the
top of the mast to the deck of the boat, where the backstay would be secured
at the stern, the forestay at the bow and the shrouds, about 3 each on the
starboard and port beam. If one should
fail, especially the fore or back stay, then all means to secure the mast by
using free halyards (the lines that pull sails up the mast) are used to
simulate the part that has failed.
Chris was able to contain the forestay next to the mast and from El
Kelly’s suggestion; he used his spinnaker halyard in place of the forestay.
Upon seeing their
vessel, we decided to escort Sensei back to Niue
beating against wind that increased to 20-25 knots and 4-6 foot waves, by way
of motor sailing with a partial jib and tacking back and forth. Grateful for the company, we received many
thanks from our buddy boat, but our rational is that we cruisers have to
stick together and if the shoe was on the other foot, they would have done
the same. Ten hours later, we tied up
to a mooring buoy and slept for 6 hours then left for a second attempt to the
Vava’u Island group of Tonga.
Instantly
viewing Tonga, a feeling that we were sailing back home in the San Juans (minus the palm trees) came over us while passing
small islands, high green hills and calm, quiet anchorages. The weather is warm, but not to hot with
gentle cooling breezes in the afternoon.
Checking
into Tonga
was an experience in itself. This was
the first country custom officials boarded our boat, with four agents, one
each representing immigration, customs, health and agriculture. Forewarned that the agents are known to ask
for things to drink and food to eat, I was prepared to offer coffee and
cookies when they boarded. Thankfully
only the agriculture agent seemed interested in going below to look over
vegetables that we claimed. He
confiscated the sweet potatoes, but let me keep my white potatoes and
carrots. While sitting down at our
table eating all the cookies and preparing his paper work, he asked if I had
a spare dictionary on board. I
honestly replied, “No, I do not have a spare dictionary, but I do have two
bibles.” Not interested in the bibles,
he declined my offer. According to my Moon
Tonga-Samoa Handbook, Tongans are known to be regular church goers with
Sundays a day of rest, unlawful to work, and all contracts signed on a Sunday
are void. This culture is highly religious;
the agent may have many bibles already and didn’t need an extra one. While he was gathering his paperwork, he
happened to have a pack of Marlboro cigarettes on the table and asked if I
would have a pack available. Well it
just so happen we did have 12 packs on board, used for instances of pirates
or enticing undesirables off the boat, we would give away cigs. Figuring this kind of fit the
circumstances, I gladly gave him a pack and off he went. Our check in was much easier than our
friend’s on Sarabi, a 50’ Catamaran. Living it up big on their blush leather
couch, the officials hung about looking at their Sports Illustrated Swimsuit
Issue while enjoying a beer!
I hope not
to leave a bad impression on Tonga
due to the government officials’ actions.
Not all agents of Tonga
want to sit and consume the cruisers food and drink. There have been other stories from our
friends that checked into other ports where the agents were very official and
professional.
Once again
the people are friendly and we feel safe in this country. While purchasing some fruit, I would ask
the vendor to suggest the best fruit to buy and made some small talk and was
given extra bananas and a papaya.
Simple gestures like that are wonderful to experience.
The oldest
and only remaining Polynesian monarchy, the Kingdom of Tonga
has never been ruled by foreigners.
Considered a third world country, tourism plays an important part in
the economy. During our stay, the elderly and ailing
Tongan King, Taufa’ahau Topou
had passed away in New
Zealand.
In respect to the king, a mourning period of one month has been
declared, requesting Tongans to wear black and no loud music to be
played. In years past if royalty were
to die, a longer mourning period would be established with many government agencies
and businesses closed. But as this
nation evolves economically, it is relaxing some of their customs. However, you can walk down the street and
see men wearing the traditional skirt called Ta,ovala and modesty is a must as locals swim fully
clothed.
With the
surrounding islands, clean water and sandy beaches, I would recommend this area
for charter boat sailing. Easy to
navigate between the islands and many fun establishments to visit on shore
have made our time here go fast.
However, we are planning to visit the Southern
Islands soon which are more remote and the locals live more
rustic lives with little conveniences than their Northern country men.
I may not
be able to get another email out until we reach New Zealand in November. I leave you with a saying we have for
parting fellow cruisers, “Fair winds and calm seas”.
First
Mate, La Kelly