First Mate’s
Journal April 18,
2006
Passage to the Marquesan
Islands
A passage of
over 2700 nautical miles, our longest distance in one jaunt wasn’t the
easiest task in regards to the preparation.
Hunting down extra oil filters, spare parts for the odds and ends,
food provisioning for voyage and the three months in the South Pacific had
consumed our days. Estimating our
passage to take 30 days we were mentally prepared for the voyage. Rotating three hour shifts during the night
watch and catnapping during the day, a routine developed after five days at
sea. The trip’s low points were
confused rolly seas, and a few days of brief but
frequent 20-30 knot winds and rain squalls.
The celebrated highs were pleasant seas with a strong wind for
sailing, watching the moon skirt across the star clustered sky and of course
crossing the equator with the tribute to Neptune.
Our total time
at sea was 25 days, 2 ½ hours to the first landfall on Atuona, Hiva Oa arriving on Easter Sunday morning. Eyes that have only seen the night sky and
surrounding blue sea get misty when viewing green covered mountains with
cloud coated peaks jutting out of the ocean.
Sounds other than the squeaky boat float through the air such as a
rooster calling out his territory. The
scent of flowers and locals burning coconut husks waft out the boat like a
light floral incense. Landfall was the
final celebration of a successful trip and our hearts filled with pride on
the accomplishment.
Having visited
four islands of the Marquesas group, Hiva Oa,
Fatu Hiva, Ua Pou and Nuka Hiva, they all have similar traits with abundant
rainfall creating vegetation abound inhabiting generous and friendly people. The Marquesan
people speak both French & their native language which is a different
language from the other Polynesian
Island groups. Visiting towns and villages of these
islands, it is not hard to see the pride and tradition they retain through
their language, wood & bone carvings, body tattoos, dance and the common
flower tucked behind the ear or crown of flowers worn in women’s hair. Many locals have yards filled with lemon,
bread fruit, mango, and pamplemousse (sweet grapefruit) trees while chickens
run in the yard and goats are tied up in the back. They also hunt wild boar in the hills and
retain the husks for decorative carving.
Very generous
with their fruit, hardly a day goes by without a sweet pamplemousse to
eat. We have never asked for the
fruit, it was just given to us. For
example, walking by a women’s gorgeous botanical yard, not being afraid to
express my appreciation for such a pretty sight (even if the recipient
doesn’t speak English) I commented on her master gardening skills while
taking pictures. She offered us a bag
full of melons.
Early to bed and
early to rise is the Marquesan rhythm. If I want to get fresh vegetables at the
Saturday market in Nuka Hiva, I need to be at the market by 5:00 am. If a variety of vegetables were offered in
the grocery stores, I would skip the market but the small stores mostly consist
of beverages, canned goods & frozen meats. Many items are expensive here since they
are shipped in from Tahiti and heavily
taxed. Sticker shocked at the price
for one roll of paper towels costing $4 or a liter of Kahlua costing $55 when
I purchased a 2 liter bottle for $9 in Mexico. However, a few items are subsidized by the
French government. Baguettes are 40
cents for a 2 foot loaf and we found 14 oz can of baked beans to be 81
cents. Thankfully I stocked up on
canned goods and other staples before leaving other wise baked beans and bread
would be our staple.
Since this area
is very remote, the larger towns provide the bare essentials containing a few
small grocery stores, clothing boutiques, a bank, post office and a few over
priced restaurants. Stumbling onto a
small DVD rental shop was surprising and we only saw two establishments offer
internet services which the speed on the computers was at a snails pace and
expensive. Computers and the internet
are not a big deal here, but satellite TV appears to be popular.
During the past weeks,
we filled our time with hikes to water falls and petroglyphs,
riding our bikes around town, fixing things that broke on the boat, swimming,
swatting Nonos (biting insects), reading, sweating,
sailing from island to island, hand washing laundry, and I think you get the
idea what we do on the boat.
Experiencing this tropical life isn’t the sipping mango dacaris by the pool, but taking the good along with the
bad, we have been enjoying our time here.
Our Visa for the
French Polynesian Islands
is only for a 3 month time frame. The
next group of islands will be the Tuamotus which have little rainfall but
clear blue water perfect for diving and snorkeling. After a few weeks sailing those islands, we
will venture onto the Society Islands where the famed Tahiti, Moorea & Bora Bora
reside.
While I normally
send pictures along my email, this connection is slower than molasses, but I
here there is a suitable internet connection in order to send pictures and
update the website once we reach Tahiti.
Ka O Ha (good
day in Marquesan)
Kelly